Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference

Kirkham, Pat

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Description: Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference

BOOKWomen Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference

Pat Kirkham (Editor)

https://doi.org/10.37862/aaeportal.00208

Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-20267

This stunning book celebrates the many contributions women designers have made to American culture over the past century in such fields as textiles, ceramics, graphics, furniture, interiors, metalwork, fashion, and jewelry. It includes designers from the arts and crafts and modernist movements, Native American and African American cultures, the post-World War II era, craft and “ethnic” revivals in the 1970s and 1980s, and the world of today. Many famous designers are discussed, including Eva Zeisel, Maria Martinez, Ray Eames, Florence Knoll, Edith Head, Clare McCardell, Bonnie Cashin, Elsa Peretti, and April Greiman, as well as less well-known designers.

The book features seventeen essays by such eminent scholars as Valerie Steele, Ellen Lupton, Cheryl Buckley, and Edward S. Cooke, Jr. A timeline offers readers a broader context within which to understand the developments discussed in the text, as does Eileen Boris’s chapter “Women in the United States, 1900–2000: Social Change and Changing Experience.” In addition, an essay by Pat Kirkham and Lynne Walker explores such fascinating issues as the differing gendered nature of the various areas of design, training, and education, support networks, “race,” class, cultural traditions, and the diverse ways in which women came to be, practiced as, and experienced being designers.

Author

Pat Kirkham (Editor)

PublisherBard Graduate Center

Yale University Press

Print publication date January 2002 (out of print)

Print ISBN 9780300093314

EISBN 9780300255980

Illustrations 454

Print Status out of print

Publisher (out of print)

WorldCat

Google Books

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List of illustrations

American Women in the Twentieth Century: Context Line: 1900
American Women in the Twentieth Century: Context Line: 1910
American Women in the Twentieth Century: Context Line: 1920
American Women in the Twentieth Century: Context Line: 1930
American Women in the Twentieth Century: Context Line: 1940
American Women in the Twentieth Century: Context Line: 1950
American Women in the Twentieth Century: Context Line: 1960
American Women in the Twentieth Century: Context Line: 1970
American Women in the Twentieth Century: Context Line: 1980
American Women in the Twentieth Century: Context Line: 1990
Florence Knoll, designer, at a meeting with executives of Connecticut General, Bloomfield, Connecticut
Design for Window for Sarah Cochran, Linden Hall, Dawson, Pennsylvania
Candace Wheeler
The Designing Room
Interior design for the Library of the Woman's Building, World's Columbian Exposition, Chicago
Students of the Lowthorpe School of Landscape Gardening for Women, Groton, Massachusetts
Harriet Sartain, dean of the Philadelphia School of Design for Women
Coeducational design studies, Applied Design department, the Massachusetts Normal Art School
Adelaide Alsop Robineau working on her award-winning "Scarab" vase
Anna Wagner Keichline, age fourteen
K-Brick for hollow wall construction with predetermined fracture joints for custom fitting at the job
Maria Martinez (right) and Julian Martinez, demonstrating various states in the production of their black-on-black pottery
Mariska Karasz (left) and Ilonka Karasz
Ensemble
Java armchair
Holly Hampton (left) and Karen Hampton
Memories
Custom handwoven carpet runner
Eva Lisa (Pipsan) Saarinen and Eliel Saarinen in his studio, Hvitträsk, Finland
Charles Eames and Deborah Sussman working on the layout of the timeline/History Line for Mathematica: A World of Numbers...and Beyond
Deborah Sussman, Jennifer Stoller, and Ana Llorente-Thurik working on the layout of the timeline/Context Line for Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Students studying textile samples, Cooper Union, New York
Interior design students studying wallpaper collection at Cooper Union, New York
Robert Castle with students of interior architecture and decoration, Parsons School of Design, New York
Sister Marie preparing a DIESEL sign at Parsons School of Design, New York
Goldsholl Office staff
Women industrial designers at General Motors
Ellen Manderfield at the bureau of design, Montgomery Ward
Women students working in the machine shop at the Massachusetts Normal Art School
Anna Russell Jones, serving in the Women's Auxiliary Army Corps (WAAC) during World War II
Class in production illustration for airplane assembly work, Parsons School of Design
Front cover for House & Garden
First page of American Woman's Dilemma, detail
Mrs. Clean, Marjorie McWeeney of Rye, New York
Ellen Shipman with Ellen, Evan, and Mary at Brook Place, Plainfield, New Hampshire
Eva Zeisel and assistants, Riverside Drive studio, New York
Lella Vignelli and Massimo Vignelli with Heller plastic stacking dinnerware (1964–76) and Heller Glass Bakeware (1975)
Ray Eames and Charles Eames with panel illustrating the work of the Eames Office
Denise Scott Brown and Robert Venturi
Queen Anne Side Chair
Nampeyo demonstrating Hopi polychrome pottery, Hano, First Mesa, Arizona
Native Americans selling handicrafts to European Americans in front of the Indian Building owned by the Fred Harvey Company, Albuquerque, New Mexico
Rose Ransier receiving award for winning the Knitted Textile Association's First Annual Knit Competition
Verma Nequatewa, Polacca air strip, near First Mesa, Arizona, with her Piper Turbo Lance and Jaguar XJ6
Suzanne Vanderbilt, on Wide Wide World TV
Margaret De Patta and Eugene Bielawski co-teaching jewelry design and fabrication at an Oregon University summer class
Cheryl Riley seated in the public lobby of the Bayview Police Station, Bayview, California
Eva Zeisel in her country studio, New City, New York
Design for Dragonfly wallpaper
Belt Clasp
Sample for Fish textile no. 1
Vase
Lantern
Vase
Pitcher
Design for Dragonfly wallpaper, detail
Tyg
Bowl
Cross Pendant
Candelabrum
Seaweed and Dragon Flies
Vase
Cover for Paradise Lost by John Milton
Front cover of Box Furniture
Bullboat
Sally Burris holding the Great Shu-set bowl
Basket
Feathered basket
Basket
Lidded basket
Bright Morning Light basket
Basket
Basket
Lidded basket
Christine Paul and Pauline Paul holding a Chitimacha cane mat, outside Christine Paul's house, Chitimacha Indian Reservation, Louisiana
Two Grey Hills rug
Chiricahua blanket
Moki stripe rug
Jar
Jar
Jar
Jar
National Recovery Act jar
Vase
Vase
Bowl
Indian Head pot
Water jug
Jar
Women dancers in Rocky Boy, Montana, wearing jingle dresses
Skirt
Lightning patchwork panel
Wah-sha-she blanket
Crossroads of the Continents belt
Crossroads of the Continents belt, detail
Quilled pipe bag
Heron
Quilt
Basketball Star quilt
Design for carpet
Design for Totem Poles textile
Ensemble with wraparound skirt modeled by the designer's daughter Barbara Jones
Dress and hat worn by Dorothea Towles
Hat shown on the cover of Ladies Home Journal (August 1942)
Jacqueline and John F. Kennedy, Newport, Rhode Island
Jackie Peters presenting fabric designs to William Kolbe, president of H. M. Kolbe, and Carey Klippsten, merchandise manager for a Kolbe client
Design for polyester textile
Wild Banana textile, detail
Freedom quilt
Quilt
Log Cabin quilt
The Ancestors Speak to Me quilt
Echoes of Harlem
Tennessee Valley Authority Lazy Man quilt
Cover of Opportunity: Journal of Negro Life
Garvey Ancestral Box also known as Red, Black, and Green Ancestral Box
Prototype for U.S. Census 2000
Brochure for African American Design Archive, Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum, Smithsonian Institution, New York
Inside spread for Black Issues Book Review
Lobby of the New Jersey Performing Arts Center
Sample of carpet runner for New Jersey Performing Arts Center, Newark
Living room in the Wesley Snipes residence, Florida
Office of Sha-Kim Compere, CEO Flavor Unit Entertainment, Jersey City, New Jersey
Tudor Coin-Encrusted Table
Zulu Renaissance Writing Table for a Lady
Benin wallpaper
Kodak Picture Maker
Costume Design for Amistad
Finnish Hop textile
Scarf
American Scene textile
Rhythm series
Children at Play textile
The Jungle rug
Drapery fabric
Display fabric sample
Taj Mahal automobile upholstery fabric for 1959 Lincoln Continental
Headscarf
Mexican Plaid Drapery Panel
Crosspatch textile
Fun to Run textile
Seedy Weeds textile
Papaya textile
Furnishing fabric
Nuance textile
Arcadia textile
Lemons textile
Fibra textile
Magnum textile
Jacob's Ladder: Simply Grand textile
Wink textile
Broken Dishes quilt
The New Flower Patchwork Quilts: Designs by Marie D. Webster
Poppy quilt
Oriental Poppy quilt
Paradise Garden quilt
Advertisement for the Century of Progress quilt contest sponsored by Sears, Roebuck, Chicago
Century of Progress/World Without End quilt
Eleanor Roosevelt accepting the prize-winning Century of Progress quilt from E. J. Condon of Sears, Roebuck
Prosperity Is Just Around the Corner Quilt
Man with Crane Tennessee Valley Authority Wall Hanging
Tom's Quilt
The Men: Mask Face Quilt No. 2
Strings and Diagonal Crossbars—Solid Colors quilt
Diamond in a Square quilt
Pikake Lei and Tuberose quilt
March Study quilt
Depth of Field III: Plane View
On the W. E. Brownie Brown quilt
Kaleidoscopic XVII: Caribbean Blues
Hatfield-McCoy Victory Quilt
AIDS Memorial Quilt displayed on the Mall in Washington, DC
Byzantium II quilt
Afternoon Dress
Sketch for suit (for Patullo Modes)
Evening ensemble
Design for At-Home Negligée
Dress
Dress, detail
Sports ensemble
Design for bathing suit and coat
Suit
Parabola leather skirt with cashmere funnel-neck sweater and tights
Ensemble (right) inspired by an Empire woman's riding habit
Debutante gown
Rajah cocktail dress
Uniform for War Work coverall
Officer's overcoat
Dress
Design for The Barbie Look playsuit
Mao coat
Cape
Wedding dress
Pendant
Della Casa Appa (also called Della Casi)
Olla Maiden necklace
Pendant Necklace
Brooch
Brooch
Necklace
Building brooch
Brooch
Brooch and earrings
Body-Monitors jewelry
Electronic Oxygen Belt Pendant
Bracelet
Bone cuff bracelet
Bracelet
Shaman's Necklace
Collar
Neck Piece No. 9
Brooch
Bracelet
Mosaic Cuff bracelet
Iman shva (Otter Woman) brooch
Pendant
The Middle Passage, African Holocaust Maafa brooch
Voices necklace
Another Girl necklace
Candelabrum
Bowl
Fork
Box
Sybil Foster with samples of her work
Sauce set
Electrical lamp
Vase
Covered vegetable dish
Cocktail set
Flatware
Tea and coffee set
Teapot
Tea service
Salt and pepper set
Double-bulged bowl
Tribute to Professor Alma Eikerman necklace
Bowl
The Cup of '88
Pitcher
Silhouette No. 1
Container
Patterned bowl
Growth
Lorenzetti Lily vase
Sustaining Spirit XIII
Costume for Erykah Badu as Queen Moussette in Blues Brothers 2000
Women making costumes at Paramount wardrobe department
Costume for Mimi (Lillian Gish, right) in La Bohème
Costume for Attarea, the Princess Beloved (Seena Owen) in Intolerance
Costume for Salomé (Alla Nazimova) and the Page of Herodian (Arthur Jasmine) in Salomé
Costume for Frenchy (Marlene Dietrich) in Destry Rides Again
Costumes for Frances Stevens (Grace Kelly) and John Robie (Cary Grant) in To Catch a Thief
Costume for Hannah Brown (Judy Garland) in Easter Parade
Costume for Maggie The Cat Pollitt (Elizabeth Taylor) in Cat on a Hot Tin Roof
Costume for Laura Hunt (Gene Tierney) and Waldo Lydecker (Clifton Webb) in Laura
Costume for King Mongkut of Siam (Yul Brenner) and Anna Leonowens (Deborah Kerr) in The King and I
Costume for Maria (Julie Andrews) in The Sound of Music
Costumes for Bonnie Parker (Faye Dunaway) and Clyde Barrow (Warren Beatty) in Bonnie and Clyde
Costume for Michael Dorsey/Dorothy Michaels (Dustin Hoffman) in Tootsie
Costume for Bree Daniel (Jane Fonda) in Klute
Costume for Mina Murray/Elisabeta (Winona Ryder) in Bram Stoker's Dracula
Costume for Shorty (Spike Lee) and Malcolm X (Denzel Washington) in Malcolm X
Costume for James Cole (Bruce Willis) in Twelve Monkeys
Art direction and costume design for Camille
Design for grounds of Tara Plantation in Gone with the Wind
Production design for The White Cliffs of Dover
Production design and costume Design for What's Up Doc?
Production design for Silkwood
Production design for Pleasantville
Production design for The Silence of the Lambs
Production design for American Beauty
Anna Wagner Keichline, age fourteen
Kitchen Construction patent drawing
Desk
Belle Kogan's works displayed at the Exposition of Arts and Industries held at Radio City Forum, New York
Drawing for a Montgomery Ward toaster
Ellen Manderfield (seated, second from left), Charter Meeting of the Industrial Designers Institute, Syracuse Chapter
Glasses (from left): wine, sherbet, water, and champagne
Settee
Sideboard, table, and chair
LAR armchair
Ray Eames and Charles Eames with their work
Classic Crystal glasses
Anywhere lamp
Helen Dryden in front of a 1937 Studebaker, for which she designed the interior
Washer Unit and Dryer Unit patent drawing
Suzanne Vanderbilt with the door she designed for the 1963 Panther by General Motors
Sketch for interior door panel of the Panther show car, General Motors
Wall Clock, Model No. 2239
Zipper light prototype
Dropout vase
Stacking mugs and dinnerware
Prototype of Phonebook telephone answering machine
Model of Tren Urbano Heavy Rail Commuter Train, San Juan, Puerto Rico
Ektascan image link ultrasound imager
Sensor for Women razor
Timex Rush VO2 watch
Resolve Delta Work Station prototype
Furniture made by girls in manual training at Inglewood Union High School, California
Letter box and picture frame
Four-Panel Folding Screen
Hanging Bear cabinet
Print chest and wall cabinet
Modular stools or tables
Dining table
Dictionary stand
Glass-Top Table with Dogs No. 2
Monkey chair
Dining chair
Earring cabinet
Mickey Mackintosh chair
Shut Up and Kiss Me cabinet
110 in the Shade bench
Interior of the Church of All Souls, Evanston, Illinois
Hanging lamp for the Church of All Souls, Evanston, Illinois
Salesroom in Hopi House, Grand Canyon, Arizona
Tableware for the Fred Harvey Company's dining cars on the Santa Fe Railroad's Super Chief
The Roman Pool, La Casa Grande, William Randolph Hearst Estate, San Simeon, California
Study for tiling to top of stair tower, William Randolph Hearst Estate, San Simeon, California
Loggia, Colony Club, New York
Boudoir of Adelaide Howard Childs Frick, Frick Mansion, New York
Library, Kersey Coates Reed residence, Lake Forest, Illinois
Bedroom in Rose Cumming's residence, New York
Portrait of Sister Parish
Scheme boards for the family living quarters in the White House, Washington, DC
Scheme boards for the family living quarters in the White House, Washington, DC, detail
Maquette of drawing room design for The Honorable and Mrs. Sheldon Whitehouse, Newport, Rhode Island
Window corner of the drawing room for The Honorable and Mrs. Sheldon Whitehouse, Newport, Rhode Island
Dining Room, Cosmopolitan Club, New York
The work of Nancy McClelland
Wallpaper
Lobby, Mark Hopkins Hotel, San Francisco
Designer cocktails in the home of James Amster
Bedroom in Sister Parish's apartment, 960 Fifth Avenue, New York
Living room, Mrs. Anne McDonnell Ford Johnson's residence, New York
Peacock Alley lounge, Waldorf-Astoria Hotel, New York
Lobby, Willard Intercontinental Hotel, Washington, DC
CBS executive offices
Slot machine arcade, Harrah's Smoky Mountain Casino, Cherokee, North Carolina
Lobby area, Rehabiliation Institute of Chicago
Living room, Lopez apartment, Los Angeles
Polo Ralph Lauren Store, Madison Avenue, New York
Interior of the Bank of America headquarters, San Francisco
St. Peter's Lutheran Church, New York
Harris Residence
Bathroom, Kips Bay Decorator Showhouse, New York
Model room, Bloomingdale's Department Store, New York
Spirit Path
Garden Design for C. B. Newbold, Jenkintown, Pennsylvania
Rice terrace landscape for The Good Earth
Planting plan for trees and shrubs of the Women's Advisory Council border, New York Botanical Garden, Bronx
Women's Advisory Council border, New York Botanical Garden, Bronx
Proposed plaza park plan no. 2 for City Housing Corporation Radburn, New Jersey
Plan for Unit 12, City Housing Corporation, Radburn, New Jersey
Staking and grading plan for an outdoor theater, The Madeira School, Greenway, Virginia
Wheatfield—A Confrontation
The Bagel Garden, Boston, plan
The Bagel Garden, Boston, view
Wintergarden, World Financial Center, New York, plan
Wintergarden, World Financial Center, New York, view
Mnemonic River landscape
Lechmere Canal and Park
Restoration and preservation planning for Oldfields, Indianapolis
Plan for Norton Simon Museum Gardens, Pasadena, California
Plan for Norton Simon Museum Gardens, Pasadena, California, detail
Sculpture garden at the Norton Simon Museum
Maria Longworth Nichols
Tilework in the Church of the Most Holy Redeemer
Bowl
Jar
Tea service
Vase
Cookie Jar
Prismatique vase
Museum Teapot, coffeepot, and creamer
Town and Country dinnerware
Cup, saucer, and plate from Museum service
Coupe casseroles
Impressions, Reflections, Dimensions, and Prisms tiles
Large Bowl (H331)
Demitasse service
Soy bottle
Chalice
Tiles in the vestibule of the Amtrak Station
Peaceable Kingdom bowl
Fred Flintstone, Flash Gordon, and Marie Antoinette coffee service prototype with Blue Loop with Headdress decoration
Karen Karnes in her studio, Morgan, Vermont
Brochure with Mrs. Eaves typeface
Dust jacket and cover for Wanted: A Matchmaker
Page design for Wanted: A Matchmaker
Book cover for The Kindred of the Wild
Cover for The Noble Savage 4
Dust jacket for Autobiography of Red
Book design for Mask of Medusa
Proposed cover for Vogue
Magazine Cover for Paper
Farmstead Cheese magazine layout
Votes for Women poster
Poster for the conference Women in Design: The Next Decade, Woman's Building
You and Your Kind are Not Wanted Here poster
Preview of environmental design for XXIII Olympiad, Los Angeles
Highway sign for EPCOT Resorts and Disney Village
Poster for Dancing on Her Knees, The Public Theater, New York
Architecture Symbol and Interpretation poster
Brochure and cover design for The Third Dimension
Fonts poster
Sex Goddess poster
This Sentence is Weightless poster for the Getty Center for the History of Art and the Humanities, Los Angeles
Title sequence for The Age of Innocence
ESPN Billiards logo and opening sequence for cable channel
Information Landscapes
Inventing Flight film for 2003 Century of Flight Exposition, Dayton, Ohio
Poppy quilt, detail
Design for a Persian Garden
Basket
Garden Design for Estate of Mrs. Carll Tucker, Mount Kisco, New York
Costume Design for Little Eva in Uncle Tom's Cabin
Rug No. 1
American Scene textile, detail
Sewing Basket
Table
Hat
Skirt, detail
Seedy Weeds textile, detail
Debutante gown, detail
The Yellow Oval Room, The White House, Washington, DC
Handbag
Chevron No. 3 Textile, detail
New England Town Textile
Brooch
Costume Design for Pozzo in Waiting for Godot
Queen Anne Side Chair
Hat
Bracelet
Crossroads of the Continents belt, detail
Shaker Screen
Two vases
Costume for Miss Piggy as Benjamina Gunn in Muppet Treasure Island
Wah-sha-she blanket
A Walk on the Beach Terrazzo Floor
Samples of carpet runner for New Jersey Performing Arts Center, Newark
Costume for Erykah Badu as Queen Moussette in Blues Brothers 2000
Stones Seats from the earth is (not) flat Series
Book cover for Black Issues Book Review

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Contents

Pat Kirkham (Editor)

Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference

Contents

Author

Pat Kirkham (Editor)

PublisherBard Graduate Center

PublisherYale University Press

Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-20268

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Free

Director’s Foreword

Susan Weber Soros

Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference

THE BARD GRADUATE CENTER is honored to present Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference. This groundbreaking project considers—and celebrates—the multifaceted and largely underrecognized contributions of women designers to American culture in the twentieth century. Encompassing a broad definition of design that extends from industrial design...

Author

Susan Weber Soros

PublisherBard Graduate Center

PublisherYale University Press

Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-20269

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Preface

Pat Kirkham

Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference

DEDICATION: In memory of my mother—the first feminist in my life—who told me her stories, and introduced me to the decorative arts, Hollywood movies, fashion, politics, pleasure, and much else. And of my father—the first male supporter of “equal rights” in my life—who told me his stories and introduced me to history, architecture, politics, soccer, and much...

Author

Pat Kirkham

PublisherBard Graduate Center

PublisherYale University Press

Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-20270

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Prologue: American Women in the Twentieth Century

Eileen Boris

Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference

AMERICAN WOMEN ENTERED THE TWENTIETH CENTURY as unpaid family laborers constrained in their sexual expression and subject to legal and political disabilities...

Author

Eileen Boris

PublisherBard Graduate Center

PublisherYale University Press

Related print edition pages: pp.26-47

Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-20271

Chapter subject tags:Women designersWomen--United States--History--20th centuryWomen in the labor movementFeminism--United States--History--20th centuryWomen--Suffrage--United States--History

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Chapter 1. Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference

Pat Kirkham and Lynne Walker

Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference

THERE WERE AS MANY WAYS FOR WOMEN TO BECOME DESIGNERS during the course of the twentieth century in America as there were ways for them to practice design...

Author

Pat Kirkham and Lynne Walker

PublisherBard Graduate Center

PublisherYale University Press

Related print edition pages: pp.49-83

https://doi.org/10.37862/aaeportal.00208.001

Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-20272

Chapter subject tags:Women designersWomen--EducationWorking mothers--United StatesAfrican American women artistsIndian women artists

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Chapter 2. Women Designers and the Arts and Crafts Movement

Wendy Kaplan

Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference

THE QUESTION OF WORK FOR WOMEN in the decorative arts, as both employment and creative expression, was addressed by social reformers, advocates of women’s rights, and followers of the Arts and Crafts movement at the end of the nineteenth century and into the twentieth. Drawing on the ideas of John Ruskin,...

Author

Wendy Kaplan

PublisherBard Graduate Center

PublisherYale University Press

Related print edition pages: pp.85-99

Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-20273

Chapter subject tags:Women designersArts and crafts movement--United StatesWomen potters--United StatesWomen metal-workersWomen--Education

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Chapter 3. The Sacred Hoop: Native American Women Designers

Pamela Kladzyk

Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference

IN THE TRADITION OF OGLALA LAKOTA people, maintaining the “Sacred Hoop” refers to living, understanding, and teaching one’s culture and language from generation to generation. Engendering and maintaining the sacred circle of life has motivated the creation of Native American design as diverse as the “Basketball Star” quilts of Rae Jean Walking Eagle...

Author

Pamela Kladzyk

PublisherBard Graduate Center

PublisherYale University Press

Related print edition pages: pp.101-121

https://doi.org/10.37862/aaeportal.00208.002

Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-20274

Chapter subject tags:Indian women basket makersIndian textile fabrics--North AmericaIndian pottery--North AmericaRegaliaIndian beadwork--North America

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Chapter 4. “Three Strikes Against Me”: African American Women Designers

Pat Kirkham and Shauna Stallworth

Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference

LOOKING BACK ON THE “DIFFICULT PATH” of her “wonderful life,” Anna Russell Jones, the first African American woman to graduate from the Philadelphia School of Design for Women (now Moore College of Art and Design), commented, “I had three strikes against me: I was a woman, black, and a...

Author

Pat Kirkham and Shauna Stallworth

PublisherBard Graduate Center

PublisherYale University Press

Related print edition pages: pp.123-143

https://doi.org/10.37862/aaeportal.00208.003

Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-20275

Chapter subject tags:African American women artistsAfrican American fashion designersAfrican American quiltsHarlem RenaissanceWomen designers

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Chapter 5. “Wellpaying Self Support”: Women Textile Designers

Mary Sghoeser and Whitney Blausen

Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference

AS THE TWENTIETH CENTURY OPENED, the American textile industry was...

Author

Mary Sghoeser and Whitney Blausen

PublisherBard Graduate Center

PublisherYale University Press

Related print edition pages: pp.145-165

Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-20276

Chapter subject tags:Women textile designersDesign--AwardsTextile industry--United States

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Chapter 6. Tradition and Transformation: Women Quilt Designers

Jacqueline M. Atkins

Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference

OF ALL THE TEXTILES rooted in a utilitarian past, few have inspired such a wide-ranging creative exploration in design as quilts...

Author

Jacqueline M. Atkins

PublisherBard Graduate Center

PublisherYale University Press

Related print edition pages: pp.167-183

https://doi.org/10.37862/aaeportal.00208.004

Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-20277

Chapter subject tags:Quilts--United States--History--20th centuryQuilts--DesignWomen--EducationModernism (Art)--United StatesRevival movements (Art)--United States

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Chapter 7. Women Fashioning American Fashion

Valerie Steele

Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference

THE EARLY HISTORY OF WOMEN FASHION DESIGNERS in the United States is poorly documented, because for many years most American “designers” were dressmakers who left little trace in the historical record. In...

Author

Valerie Steele

PublisherBard Graduate Center

PublisherYale University Press

Related print edition pages: pp.185-199

https://doi.org/10.37862/aaeportal.00208.005

Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-20278

Chapter subject tags:Women fashion designersFashion--United States--History--20th centuryReady-to-wear clothing industryFashion design

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Chapter 8. Women Jewelry Designers

Toni Greenbaum and Pat Kirkham

Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference

DESPITE THE CLOSE LINKS BETWEEN JEWELRY and the shaping of “the feminine,” jewelry design and making in the United States were male-dominated activities...

Author

Toni Greenbaum and Pat Kirkham

PublisherBard Graduate Center

PublisherYale University Press

Related print edition pages: pp.201-221

https://doi.org/10.37862/aaeportal.00208.006

Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-20279

Chapter subject tags:Women jewelersModernism (Art)--United StatesJewelry--History--20th centuryIndian women jewelersAfrican American women artists

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Chapter 9. Women Metalsmiths

Jeannine Falino

Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference

BY 1900 A FEW WOMEN in the United States had already begun to practice metalworking...

Author

Jeannine Falino

PublisherBard Graduate Center

PublisherYale University Press

Related print edition pages: pp.223-245

https://doi.org/10.37862/aaeportal.00208.007

Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-20280

Chapter subject tags:Women metal-workersArts and crafts movement--United StatesWomen silversmithsModernism (Art)--United StatesDecorative arts--United States--History--20th century

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Chapter 10. Designing Hollywood: Women Costume and Production Designers

Deborah Nadoolman Landis and Pat Kirkham

Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference

THE AMERICAN FILM INDUSTRY WAS BASED IN HOLLYWOOD by the late 1910s. For the rest of the century Hollywood both shaped and reflected how Americans...

Author

Deborah Nadoolman Landis and Pat Kirkham

PublisherBard Graduate Center

PublisherYale University Press

Related print edition pages: pp.247-267

https://doi.org/10.37862/aaeportal.00208.008

Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-20281

Chapter subject tags:Women costume designersCostume--History--20th centuryMotion pictures--Setting and sceneryMotion pictures--Art direction

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Chapter 11. “In a Man’s World”: Women Industrial Designers

Ella Howard and Eric Setliff

Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference

WOMEN ARE MENTIONED ONLY INFREQUENTLY in histories of twentieth-century industrial design...

Author

Ella Howard and Eric Setliff

PublisherBard Graduate Center

PublisherYale University Press

Related print edition pages: pp.269-289

https://doi.org/10.37862/aaeportal.00208.009

Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-20282

Chapter subject tags:Industrial design--United StatesWomen designersFurniture designModernism (Art)--United StatesAutomobiles--Design and construction

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Chapter 12. Women Furniture Makers: From Decorative Designers to Studio Makers

Edward S. Cooke Jr.

Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference

WHILE A NUMBER OF DIFFERENT TYPES OF CREATIVE PRODUCTION are closely associated with women or considered women’s domain...

Author

Edward S. Cooke Jr.

PublisherBard Graduate Center

PublisherYale University Press

Related print edition pages: pp.291-303

Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-20283

Chapter subject tags:Women designersFurniture--United States--History--20th centuryFurniture designArts and crafts movement--United StatesCabinetmakers

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Chapter 13. “Woman’s Place. . .”?: Women Interior Designers

Pat Kirkham and Penny Sparke and Judith B. Gura

Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference

DURING THE TWENTIETH CENTURY a large number of women worked professionally as interior designers...

Author

Pat Kirkham and Penny Sparke and Judith B. Gura

PublisherBard Graduate Center

PublisherYale University Press

Related print edition pages: pp.305-327

Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-20284

Chapter subject tags:Women architectsWomen interior decoratorsInterior decoration--United States--History--20th century

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Chapter 14. Women Landscape Designers

Leslie Rose Close

Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference

AT THE THRESHOLD of the twentieth century, overdrawn gender roles cast American middle- and upper-class women as providers of beauty and creators of a morally uplifting home...

Author

Leslie Rose Close

PublisherBard Graduate Center

PublisherYale University Press

Related print edition pages: pp.329-345

Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-20285

Chapter subject tags:Women landscape architectsLandscape architecture--United StatesCambridge SchoolSculpture gardensLandscape architectural firms

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Chapter 15. “Quietly Fine” / Quietly Subversive: Women Ceramic Designers

Cheryl Buckley

Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference

IN FEBRUARY 1900 the Crockery and Glass Journal reported on a meeting of the United States Potters’ Association at which its president claimed...

Author

Cheryl Buckley

PublisherBard Graduate Center

PublisherYale University Press

Related print edition pages: pp.347-361

Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-20286

Chapter subject tags:Women pottersArt pottery, AmericanArts and crafts movement--United StatesModernism (Art)--United StatesFeminism in art

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Chapter 16. Colophon: Women Graphic Designers

Ellen Lupton

Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference

GRAPHIC DESIGN IS THE ART OF COMBINING WORDS AND IMAGES for public dissemination...

Author

Ellen Lupton

PublisherBard Graduate Center

PublisherYale University Press

Related print edition pages: pp.363-381

Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-20287

Chapter subject tags:Women designersGraphic design (Typography)Arts and crafts movement--United StatesPostmodernism--United StatesDigital media

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Checklist of the Exhibition

Pat Kirkham (Editor)

Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference

~The objects in the exhibition are listed below in chronological order. Life dates, where known, are included for designers. In the dimensions, height precedes width precedes depth, and abbreviations are sometimes used: L. (length), Diam. (diameter), and so on. For costume, only the overall length of the garment is given. Most film costume and production...

Author

Pat Kirkham (Editor)

PublisherBard Graduate Center

PublisherYale University Press

Related print edition pages: pp.383-401

Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-20288

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Contributors

Pat Kirkham (Editor)

Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference

Contributors

Author

Pat Kirkham (Editor)

PublisherBard Graduate Center

PublisherYale University Press

Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-20289

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Bibliography

Pat Kirkham (Editor)

Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference

Bibliography

Author

Pat Kirkham (Editor)

PublisherBard Graduate Center

PublisherYale University Press

Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-20290

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Index

Pat Kirkham (Editor)

Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference

Index

Author

Pat Kirkham (Editor)

PublisherBard Graduate Center

PublisherYale University Press

Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-20291

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Photographic credits

Pat Kirkham (Editor)

Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference

~Unless noted below, photographs are credited to the collectors, designers, museums, and other organizations listed in the captions and the Context Line, or to the photographic services of the Bard Graduate Center. Individual photographers, where known, are acknowledged below. Every effort has been made to contact copyright holders. Any errors or omissions...

Author

Pat Kirkham (Editor)

PublisherBard Graduate Center

PublisherYale University Press

Stable URL: https://aaeportal.com/?id=-20292

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