Description: Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
This stunning book celebrates the many contributions women designers have made to American culture over the past century in such fields as textiles, ceramics, graphics, furniture, interiors, metalwork, fashion, and jewelry. It includes designers from the arts and crafts and modernist movements, Native American and African American cultures, the post-World War II era, craft and “ethnic” revivals in the 1970s and 1980s, and the world of today. Many famous designers are discussed, including Eva Zeisel, Maria Martinez, Ray Eames, Florence Knoll, Edith Head, Clare McCardell, Bonnie Cashin, Elsa Peretti, and April Greiman, as well as less well-known designers.

The book features seventeen essays by such eminent scholars as Valerie Steele, Ellen Lupton, Cheryl Buckley, and Edward S. Cooke, Jr. A timeline offers readers a broader context within which to understand the developments discussed in the text, as does Eileen Boris’s chapter “Women in the United States, 1900–2000: Social Change and Changing Experience.” In addition, an essay by Pat Kirkham and Lynne Walker explores such fascinating issues as the differing gendered nature of the various areas of design, training, and education, support networks, “race,” class, cultural traditions, and the diverse ways in which women came to be, practiced as, and experienced being designers.
Author
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
PublisherBard Graduate Center
Yale University Press
Print publication date January 2002 (out of print)
Print ISBN 9780300093314
EISBN 9780300255980
Copyright© 2000 The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture
Illustrations 454
Print Status out of print
Publisher (out of print)
WorldCat
Google Books

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List of illustrations

  • American Women in the Twentieth Century: Context Line: 1900
  • American Women in the Twentieth Century: Context Line: 1910
  • American Women in the Twentieth Century: Context Line: 1920
  • American Women in the Twentieth Century: Context Line: 1930
  • American Women in the Twentieth Century: Context Line: 1940
  • American Women in the Twentieth Century: Context Line: 1950
  • American Women in the Twentieth Century: Context Line: 1960
  • American Women in the Twentieth Century: Context Line: 1970
  • American Women in the Twentieth Century: Context Line: 1980
  • American Women in the Twentieth Century: Context Line: 1990
  • Florence Knoll, designer, at a meeting with executives of Connecticut General, Bloomfield, Connecticut
  • Design for window for Sarah Cochran, Linden Hall, Dawson, Pennsylvania
  • Candace Wheeler
  • The Designing Room
  • Interior design for the Library of the Woman's Building, World's Columbian Exposition, Chicago
  • Students of the Lowthorpe School of Landscape Gardening for Women, Groton, Massachusetts
  • Harriet Sartain, dean of the Philadelphia School of Design for Women
  • Coeducational design studies, Applied Design department, the Massachusetts Normal Art School
  • Adelaide Alsop Robineau working on her award-winning "Scarab" vase
  • Anna Wagner Keichline, age fourteen
  • K-Brick for hollow wall construction with predetermined fracture joints for custom fitting at the job
  • Maria Martinez (right) and Julian Martinez, demonstrating various states in the production of their black-on-black pottery
  • Mariska Karasz (left) and Ilonka Karasz
  • Ensemble
  • Java armchair
  • Holly Hampton (left) and Karen Hampton
  • Memories
  • Custom handwoven carpet runner
  • Eva Lisa (Pipsan) Saarinen and Eliel Saarinen in his studio, Hvitträsk, Finland
  • Charles Eames and Deborah Sussman working on the layout of the timeline/History Line for Mathematica: A World of Numbers...and Beyond
  • Deborah Sussman, Jennifer Stoller, and Ana Llorente-Thurik working on the layout of the timeline/Context Line for Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
  • Students studying textile samples, Cooper Union, New York
  • Interior design students studying wallpaper collection at Cooper Union, New York
  • Robert Castle with students of interior architecture and decoration, Parsons School of Design, New York
  • Sister Marie preparing a DIESEL sign at Parsons School of Design, New York
  • Goldsholl Office staff
  • Women industrial designers at General Motors
  • Ellen Manderfield at the bureau of design, Montgomery Ward
  • Women students working in the machine shop at the Massachusetts Normal Art School
  • Anna Russell Jones, serving in the Women's Auxiliary Army Corps (WAAC) during World War II
  • Class in production illustration for airplane assembly work, Parsons School of Design
  • Front cover for House & Garden
  • First page of American Woman's Dilemma, detail
  • Mrs. Clean, Marjorie McWeeney of Rye, New York
  • Ellen Shipman with Ellen, Evan, and Mary at Brook Place, Plainfield, New Hampshire
  • Eva Zeisel and assistants, Riverside Drive studio, New York
  • Lella Vignelli and Massimo Vignelli with Heller plastic stacking dinnerware (1964–76) and Heller Glass Bakeware (1975)
  • Ray Eames and Charles Eames with panel illustrating the work of the Eames Office
  • Denise Scott Brown and Robert Venturi
  • Queen Anne Side Chair
  • Nampeyo demonstrating Hopi polychrome pottery, Hano, First Mesa, Arizona
  • Native Americans selling handicrafts to European Americans in front of the Indian Building owned by the Fred Harvey Company, Albuquerque, New Mexico
  • Rose Ransier receiving award for winning the Knitted Textile Association's First Annual Knit Competition
  • Verma Nequatewa, Polacca air strip, near First Mesa, Arizona, with her Piper Turbo Lance and Jaguar XJ6
  • Suzanne Vanderbilt, on Wide Wide World TV
  • Margaret De Patta and Eugene Bielawski co-teaching jewelry design and fabrication at an Oregon University summer class
  • Cheryl Riley seated in the public lobby of the Bayview Police Station, Bayview, California
  • Eva Zeisel in her country studio, New City, New York
  • Design for Dragonfly wallpaper
  • Belt Clasp
  • Sample for Fish textile no. 1
  • Vase
  • Lantern
  • Vase
  • Pitcher
  • Design for Dragonfly wallpaper, detail
  • Tyg
  • Bowl
  • Cross Pendant
  • Candelabrum
  • Seaweed and Dragon Flies
  • Vase
  • Cover for Paradise Lost by John Milton
  • Front cover of Box Furniture
  • Bullboat
  • Sally Burris holding the Great Shu-set bowl
  • Basket
  • Feathered basket
  • Basket
  • Lidded basket
  • Bright Morning Light basket
  • Basket
  • Basket
  • Lidded basket
  • Christine Paul and Pauline Paul holding a Chitimacha cane mat, outside Christine Paul's house, Chitimacha Indian Reservation, Louisiana
  • Two Grey Hills rug
  • Chiricahua blanket
  • Moki stripe rug
  • Jar
  • Jar
  • Jar
  • Jar
  • National Recovery Act jar
  • Vase
  • Vase
  • Bowl
  • Indian Head pot
  • Water jug
  • Jar
  • Women dancers in Rocky Boy, Montana, wearing jingle dresses
  • Skirt
  • Lightning patchwork panel
  • Wah-sha-she blanket
  • Crossroads of the Continents belt
  • Crossroads of the Continents belt, detail
  • Quilled pipe bag
  • Heron
  • Quilt
  • Basketball Star quilt
  • Design for carpet
  • Design for Totem Poles textile
  • Ensemble with wraparound skirt modeled by the designer's daughter Barbara Jones
  • Dress and hat worn by Dorothea Towles
  • Hat shown on the cover of Ladies Home Journal (August 1942)
  • Jacqueline and John F. Kennedy, Newport, Rhode Island
  • Jackie Peters presenting fabric designs to William Kolbe, president of H. M. Kolbe, and Carey Klippsten, merchandise manager for a Kolbe client
  • Design for polyester textile
  • Wild Banana textile, detail
  • Freedom quilt
  • Quilt
  • Log Cabin quilt
  • The Ancestors Speak to Me quilt
  • Echoes of Harlem
  • Tennessee Valley Authority Lazy Man quilt
  • Cover of Opportunity: Journal of Negro Life
  • Garvey Ancestral Box also known as Red, Black, and Green Ancestral Box
  • Prototype for U.S. Census 2000
  • Brochure for African American Design Archive, Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum, Smithsonian Institution, New York
  • Inside spread for Black Issues Book Review
  • Lobby of the New Jersey Performing Arts Center
  • Sample of carpet runner for New Jersey Performing Arts Center, Newark
  • Living room in the Wesley Snipes residence, Florida
  • Office of Sha-Kim Compere, CEO Flavor Unit Entertainment, Jersey City, New Jersey
  • Tudor Coin-Encrusted Table
  • Zulu Renaissance Writing Table for a Lady
  • Benin wallpaper
  • Kodak Picture Maker
  • Costume Design for Amistad
  • Finnish Hop textile
  • Scarf
  • American Scene textile
  • Rhythm series
  • Children at Play textile
  • The Jungle rug
  • Drapery fabric
  • Display fabric sample
  • Taj Mahal automobile upholstery fabric for 1959 Lincoln Continental
  • Headscarf
  • Mexican Plaid Drapery Panel
  • Crosspatch textile
  • Fun to Run textile
  • Seedy Weeds textile
  • Papaya textile
  • Furnishing fabric
  • Nuance textile
  • Arcadia textile
  • Lemons textile
  • Fibra textile
  • Magnum textile
  • Jacob's Ladder: Simply Grand textile
  • Wink textile
  • Broken Dishes quilt
  • The New Flower Patchwork Quilts: Designs by Marie D. Webster
  • Poppy quilt
  • Oriental Poppy quilt
  • Paradise Garden quilt
  • Advertisement for the Century of Progress quilt contest sponsored by Sears, Roebuck, Chicago
  • Century of Progress/World Without End quilt
  • Eleanor Roosevelt accepting the prize-winning Century of Progress quilt from E. J. Condon of Sears, Roebuck
  • Prosperity Is Just Around the Corner Quilt
  • Man with Crane Tennessee Valley Authority Wall Hanging
  • Tom's Quilt
  • The Men: Mask Face Quilt No. 2
  • Strings and Diagonal Crossbars—Solid Colors quilt
  • Diamond in a Square quilt
  • Pikake Lei and Tuberose quilt
  • March Study quilt
  • Depth of Field III: Plane View
  • On the W. E. Brownie Brown quilt
  • Kaleidoscopic XVII: Caribbean Blues
  • Hatfield-McCoy Victory Quilt
  • AIDS Memorial Quilt displayed on the Mall in Washington, DC
  • Byzantium II quilt
  • Afternoon Dress
  • Sketch for suit (for Patullo Modes)
  • Evening ensemble
  • Design for At-Home Negligée
  • Dress
  • Dress, detail
  • Sports ensemble
  • Design for bathing suit and coat
  • Suit
  • Parabola leather skirt with cashmere funnel-neck sweater and tights
  • Ensemble (right) inspired by an Empire woman's riding habit
  • Debutante gown
  • Rajah cocktail dress
  • Uniform for War Work coverall
  • Officer's overcoat
  • Dress
  • Design for The Barbie Look playsuit
  • Mao coat
  • Cape
  • Wedding dress
  • Pendant
  • Della Casa Appa (also called Della Casi)
  • Olla Maiden necklace
  • Pendant Necklace
  • Brooch
  • Brooch
  • Necklace
  • Building brooch
  • Brooch
  • Brooch and earrings
  • Body-Monitors jewelry
  • Electronic Oxygen Belt Pendant
  • Bracelet
  • Bone cuff bracelet
  • Bracelet
  • Shaman's Necklace
  • Collar
  • Neck Piece No. 9
  • Brooch
  • Bracelet
  • Mosaic Cuff bracelet
  • Iman shva (Otter Woman) brooch
  • Pendant
  • The Middle Passage, African Holocaust Maafa brooch
  • Voices necklace
  • Another Girl necklace
  • Candelabrum
  • Bowl
  • Fork
  • Box
  • Sybil Foster with samples of her work
  • Sauce set
  • Electrical lamp
  • Vase
  • Covered vegetable dish
  • Cocktail set
  • Flatware
  • Tea and coffee set
  • Teapot
  • Tea service
  • Salt and pepper set
  • Double-bulged bowl
  • Tribute to Professor Alma Eikerman necklace
  • Bowl
  • The Cup of '88
  • Pitcher
  • Silhouette No. 1
  • Container
  • Patterned bowl
  • Growth
  • Lorenzetti Lily vase
  • Sustaining Spirit XIII
  • Costume for Erykah Badu as Queen Moussette in Blues Brothers 2000
  • Women making costumes at Paramount wardrobe department
  • Costume for Mimi (Lillian Gish, right) in La Bohème
  • Costume for Attarea, the Princess Beloved (Seena Owen) in Intolerance
  • Costume for Salomé (Alla Nazimova) and the Page of Herodian (Arthur Jasmine) in Salomé
  • Costume for Frenchy (Marlene Dietrich) in Destry Rides Again
  • Costumes for Frances Stevens (Grace Kelly) and John Robie (Cary Grant) in To Catch a Thief
  • Costume for Hannah Brown (Judy Garland) in Easter Parade
  • Costume for Maggie The Cat Pollitt (Elizabeth Taylor) in Cat on a Hot Tin Roof
  • Costume for Laura Hunt (Gene Tierney) and Waldo Lydecker (Clifton Webb) in Laura
  • Costume for King Mongkut of Siam (Yul Brenner) and Anna Leonowens (Deborah Kerr) in The King and I
  • Costume for Maria (Julie Andrews) in The Sound of Music
  • Costumes for Bonnie Parker (Faye Dunaway) and Clyde Barrow (Warren Beatty) in Bonnie and Clyde
  • Costume for Michael Dorsey/Dorothy Michaels (Dustin Hoffman) in Tootsie
  • Costume for Bree Daniel (Jane Fonda) in Klute
  • Costume for Mina Murray/Elisabeta (Winona Ryder) in Bram Stoker's Dracula
  • Costume for Shorty (Spike Lee) and Malcolm X (Denzel Washington) in Malcolm X
  • Costume for James Cole (Bruce Willis) in Twelve Monkeys
  • Art direction and costume design for Camille
  • Design for grounds of Tara Plantation in Gone with the Wind
  • Production design for The White Cliffs of Dover
  • Production design and costume Design for What's Up Doc?
  • Production design for Silkwood
  • Production design for Pleasantville
  • Production design for The Silence of the Lambs
  • Production design for American Beauty
  • Anna Wagner Keichline, age fourteen
  • Kitchen Construction patent drawing
  • Desk
  • Belle Kogan's works displayed at the Exposition of Arts and Industries held at Radio City Forum, New York
  • Drawing for a Montgomery Ward toaster
  • Ellen Manderfield (seated, second from left), Charter Meeting of the Industrial Designers Institute, Syracuse Chapter
  • Glasses (from left): wine, sherbet, water, and champagne
  • Settee
  • Sideboard, table, and chair
  • LAR armchair
  • Ray Eames and Charles Eames with their work
  • Classic Crystal glasses
  • Anywhere lamp
  • Helen Dryden in front of a 1937 Studebaker, for which she designed the interior
  • Washer Unit and Dryer Unit patent drawing
  • Suzanne Vanderbilt with the door she designed for the 1963 Panther by General Motors
  • Sketch for interior door panel of the Panther show car, General Motors
  • Wall Clock, Model No. 2239
  • Zipper light prototype
  • Dropout vase
  • Stacking mugs and dinnerware
  • Prototype of Phonebook telephone answering machine
  • Model of Tren Urbano Heavy Rail Commuter Train, San Juan, Puerto Rico
  • Ektascan image link ultrasound imager
  • Sensor for Women razor
  • Timex Rush VO2 watch
  • Resolve Delta Work Station prototype
  • Furniture made by girls in manual training at Inglewood Union High School, California
  • Letter box and picture frame
  • Four-Panel Folding Screen
  • Hanging Bear cabinet
  • Print chest and wall cabinet
  • Modular stools or tables
  • Dining table
  • Dictionary stand
  • Glass-Top Table with Dogs No. 2
  • Monkey chair
  • Dining chair
  • Earring cabinet
  • Mickey Mackintosh chair
  • Shut Up and Kiss Me cabinet
  • 110 in the Shade bench
  • Interior of the Church of All Souls, Evanston, Illinois
  • Hanging lamp for the Church of All Souls, Evanston, Illinois
  • Salesroom in Hopi House, Grand Canyon, Arizona
  • Tableware for the Fred Harvey Company's dining cars on the Santa Fe Railroad's Super Chief
  • The Roman Pool, La Casa Grande, William Randolph Hearst Estate, San Simeon, California
  • Study for tiling to top of stair tower, William Randolph Hearst Estate, San Simeon, California
  • Loggia, Colony Club, New York
  • Boudoir of Adelaide Howard Childs Frick, Frick Mansion, New York
  • Library, Kersey Coates Reed residence, Lake Forest, Illinois
  • Bedroom in Rose Cumming's residence, New York
  • Portrait of Sister Parish
  • Scheme boards for the family living quarters in the White House, Washington, DC
  • Scheme boards for the family living quarters in the White House, Washington, DC, detail
  • Maquette of drawing room design for The Honorable and Mrs. Sheldon Whitehouse, Newport, Rhode Island
  • Window corner of the drawing room for The Honorable and Mrs. Sheldon Whitehouse, Newport, Rhode Island
  • Dining Room, Cosmopolitan Club, New York
  • The work of Nancy McClelland
  • Wallpaper
  • Lobby, Mark Hopkins Hotel, San Francisco
  • Designer cocktails in the home of James Amster
  • Bedroom in Sister Parish's apartment, 960 Fifth Avenue, New York
  • Living room, Mrs. Anne McDonnell Ford Johnson's residence, New York
  • Peacock Alley lounge, Waldorf-Astoria Hotel, New York
  • Lobby, Willard Intercontinental Hotel, Washington, DC
  • CBS executive offices
  • Slot machine arcade, Harrah's Smoky Mountain Casino, Cherokee, North Carolina
  • Lobby area, Rehabiliation Institute of Chicago
  • Living room, Lopez apartment, Los Angeles
  • Polo Ralph Lauren Store, Madison Avenue, New York
  • Interior of the Bank of America headquarters, San Francisco
  • St. Peter's Lutheran Church, New York
  • Harris Residence
  • Bathroom, Kips Bay Decorator Showhouse, New York
  • Model room, Bloomingdale's Department Store, New York
  • Spirit Path
  • Garden Design for C. B. Newbold, Jenkintown, Pennsylvania
  • Rice terrace landscape for The Good Earth
  • Planting plan for trees and shrubs of the Women's Advisory Council border, New York Botanical Garden, Bronx
  • Women's Advisory Council border, New York Botanical Garden, Bronx
  • Proposed plaza park plan no. 2 for City Housing Corporation Radburn, New Jersey
  • Plan for Unit 12, City Housing Corporation, Radburn, New Jersey
  • Staking and grading plan for an outdoor theater, The Madeira School, Greenway, Virginia
  • Wheatfield—A Confrontation
  • The Bagel Garden, Boston, plan
  • The Bagel Garden, Boston, view
  • Wintergarden, World Financial Center, New York, plan
  • Wintergarden, World Financial Center, New York, view
  • Mnemonic River landscape
  • Lechmere Canal and Park
  • Restoration and preservation planning for Oldfields, Indianapolis
  • Plan for Norton Simon Museum Gardens, Pasadena, California
  • Plan for Norton Simon Museum Gardens, Pasadena, California, detail
  • Sculpture garden at the Norton Simon Museum
  • Maria Longworth Nichols
  • Tilework in the Church of the Most Holy Redeemer
  • Bowl
  • Jar
  • Tea service
  • Vase
  • Cookie Jar
  • Prismatique vase
  • Museum Teapot, coffeepot, and creamer
  • Town and Country dinnerware
  • Cup, saucer, and plate from Museum service
  • Coupe casseroles
  • Impressions, Reflections, Dimensions, and Prisms tiles
  • Large Bowl (H331)
  • Demitasse service
  • Soy bottle
  • Chalice
  • Tiles in the vestibule of the Amtrak Station
  • Peaceable Kingdom bowl
  • Fred Flintstone, Flash Gordon, and Marie Antoinette coffee service prototype with Blue Loop with Headdress decoration
  • Karen Karnes in her studio, Morgan, Vermont
  • Brochure with Mrs. Eaves typeface
  • Dust jacket and cover for Wanted: A Matchmaker
  • Page design for Wanted: A Matchmaker
  • Book cover for The Kindred of the Wild
  • Cover for The Noble Savage 4
  • Dust jacket for Autobiography of Red
  • Book design for Mask of Medusa
  • Proposed cover for Vogue
  • Magazine Cover for Paper
  • Farmstead Cheese magazine layout
  • Votes for Women poster
  • Poster for Women in Design: The Next Decade conference at the Woman's Building, Los Angeles
  • You and Your Kind are Not Wanted Here poster
  • Preview of environmental design for XXIII Olympiad, Los Angeles
  • Highway sign for EPCOT Resorts and Disney Village
  • Poster for Dancing on Her Knees, The Public Theater, New York
  • Architecture Symbol and Interpretation poster
  • Brochure and cover design for The Third Dimension
  • Fonts poster
  • Sex Goddess poster
  • This Sentence is Weightless poster for the Getty Center for the History of Art and the Humanities, Los Angeles
  • Title sequence for The Age of Innocence
  • ESPN Billiards logo and opening sequence for cable channel
  • Information Landscapes
  • Inventing Flight film for 2003 Century of Flight Exposition, Dayton, Ohio
  • Poppy quilt, detail
  • Design for a Persian Garden
  • Basket
  • Garden Design for Estate of Mrs. Carll Tucker, Mount Kisco, New York
  • Costume Design for Little Eva in Uncle Tom's Cabin
  • Rug No. 1
  • American Scene textile, detail
  • Sewing Basket
  • Table
  • Hat
  • Skirt, detail
  • Seedy Weeds textile, detail
  • Debutante gown, detail
  • The Yellow Oval Room, The White House, Washington, DC
  • Handbag
  • Chevron No. 3 Textile, detail
  • New England Town Textile
  • Brooch
  • Costume Design for Pozzo in Waiting for Godot
  • Queen Anne Side Chair
  • Hat
  • Bracelet
  • Crossroads of the Continents belt, detail
  • Shaker Screen
  • Two vases
  • Costume for Miss Piggy as Benjamina Gunn in Muppet Treasure Island
  • Wah-sha-she blanket
  • A Walk on the Beach Terrazzo Floor
  • Samples of carpet runner for New Jersey Performing Arts Center, Newark
  • Costume for Erykah Badu as Queen Moussette in Blues Brothers 2000
  • Stones Seats from the earth is (not) flat Series
  • Book cover for Black Issues Book Review
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Contents
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
Description: Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Contents
Author
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
PublisherBard Graduate Center
PublisherYale University Press
Copyright© 2000 The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture
Read
Free
Director’s Foreword
Susan Weber Soros
Description: Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
THE BARD GRADUATE CENTER is honored to present Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference. This groundbreaking project considers—and celebrates—the multifaceted and largely underrecognized contributions of women designers to American culture in the twentieth century. Encompassing a broad definition of design that extends from industrial design...
Author
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
PublisherBard Graduate Center
PublisherYale University Press
Copyright© 2000 The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture
Read
Free
Preface
Pat Kirkham
Description: Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
DEDICATION: In memory of my mother—the first feminist in my life—who told me her stories, and introduced me to the decorative arts, Hollywood movies, fashion, politics, pleasure, and much else. And of my father—the first male supporter of “equal rights” in my life—who told me his stories and introduced me to history, architecture, politics, soccer, and much...
Author
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
PublisherBard Graduate Center
PublisherYale University Press
Copyright© 2000 The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture
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Prologue: American Women in the Twentieth Century
Eileen Boris
Description: Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
AMERICAN WOMEN ENTERED THE TWENTIETH CENTURY as unpaid family laborers constrained in their sexual expression and subject to legal and political disabilities...
Author
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
PublisherBard Graduate Center
PublisherYale University Press
Copyright© 2000 The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture
Subjects: Women designersWomen--United States--History--20th centuryWomen in the labor movementFeminism--United States--History--20th centuryWomen--Suffrage--United States--History

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Chapter 1. Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Pat Kirkham and Lynne Walker
Description: Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
THERE WERE AS MANY WAYS FOR WOMEN TO BECOME DESIGNERS during the course of the twentieth century in America as there were ways for them to practice design...
Author
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
PublisherBard Graduate Center
PublisherYale University Press
Copyright© 2000 The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture
Subjects: Women designersWomen--EducationWorking mothers--United StatesAfrican American women artistsIndian women artists

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Chapter 2. Women Designers and the Arts and Crafts Movement
Wendy Kaplan
Description: Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
THE QUESTION OF WORK FOR WOMEN in the decorative arts, as both employment and creative expression, was addressed by social reformers, advocates of women’s rights, and followers of the Arts and Crafts movement at the end of the nineteenth century and into the twentieth. Drawing on the ideas of John Ruskin,...
Author
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
PublisherBard Graduate Center
PublisherYale University Press
Copyright© 2000 The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture
Subjects: Women designersArts and crafts movement--United StatesWomen potters--United StatesWomen metal-workersWomen--Education

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Chapter 3. The Sacred Hoop: Native American Women Designers
Pamela Kladzyk
Description: Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
IN THE TRADITION OF OGLALA LAKOTA people, maintaining the “Sacred Hoop” refers to living, understanding, and teaching one’s culture and language from generation to generation. Engendering and maintaining the sacred circle of life has motivated the creation of Native American design as diverse as the “Basketball Star” quilts of Rae Jean Walking Eagle...
Author
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
PublisherBard Graduate Center
PublisherYale University Press
Copyright© 2000 The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture
Subjects: Indian women basket makersIndian textile fabrics--North AmericaIndian pottery--North AmericaRegaliaIndian beadwork--North America

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Chapter 4. “Three Strikes Against Me”: African American Women Designers
Pat Kirkham and Shauna Stallworth
Description: Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
LOOKING BACK ON THE “DIFFICULT PATH” of her “wonderful life,” Anna Russell Jones, the first African American woman to graduate from the Philadelphia School of Design for Women (now Moore College of Art and Design), commented, “I had three strikes against me: I was a woman, black, and a...
Author
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
PublisherBard Graduate Center
PublisherYale University Press
Copyright© 2000 The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture
Subjects: African American women artistsAfrican American fashion designersAfrican American quiltsHarlem RenaissanceWomen designers

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Chapter 5. “Wellpaying Self Support”: Women Textile Designers
Mary Sghoeser and Whitney Blausen
Description: Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
AS THE TWENTIETH CENTURY OPENED, the American textile industry was...
Author
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
PublisherBard Graduate Center
PublisherYale University Press
Copyright© 2000 The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture
Subjects: Women textile designersDesign--AwardsHand weavingWomen-owned business enterprises--United StatesTextile industry--United States

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Chapter 6. Tradition and Transformation: Women Quilt Designers
Jacqueline M. Atkins
Description: Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
OF ALL THE TEXTILES rooted in a utilitarian past, few have inspired such a wide-ranging creative exploration in design as quilts...
Author
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
PublisherBard Graduate Center
PublisherYale University Press
Copyright© 2000 The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture
Subjects: Quilts--United States--History--20th centuryQuilts--DesignWomen--EducationModernism (Art)--United StatesRevival movements (Art)--United States

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Chapter 7. Women Fashioning American Fashion
Valerie Steele
Description: Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
THE EARLY HISTORY OF WOMEN FASHION DESIGNERS in the United States is poorly documented, because for many years most American “designers” were dressmakers who left little trace in the historical record. In...
Author
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
PublisherBard Graduate Center
PublisherYale University Press
Copyright© 2000 The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture
Subjects: Women fashion designersFashion--United States--History--20th centuryReady-to-wear clothing industrySport clothes for womenFashion design

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Chapter 8. Women Jewelry Designers
Toni Greenbaum and Pat Kirkham
Description: Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
DESPITE THE CLOSE LINKS BETWEEN JEWELRY and the shaping of “the feminine,” jewelry design and making in the United States were male-dominated activities...
Author
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
PublisherBard Graduate Center
PublisherYale University Press
Copyright© 2000 The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture
Subjects: Women jewelersModernism (Art)--United StatesJewelry--History--20th centuryIndian women jewelersAfrican American women artists

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Chapter 9. Women Metalsmiths
Jeannine Falino
Description: Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
BY 1900 A FEW WOMEN in the United States had already begun to practice metalworking...
Author
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
PublisherBard Graduate Center
PublisherYale University Press
Copyright© 2000 The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture
Subjects: Women metal-workersArts and crafts movement--United StatesWomen silversmithsModernism (Art)--United StatesDecorative arts--United States--History--20th century

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Chapter 10. Designing Hollywood: Women Costume and Production Designers
Deborah Nadoolman Landis and Pat Kirkham
Description: Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
THE AMERICAN FILM INDUSTRY WAS BASED IN HOLLYWOOD by the late 1910s. For the rest of the century Hollywood both shaped and reflected how Americans...
Author
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
PublisherBard Graduate Center
PublisherYale University Press
Copyright© 2000 The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture
Subjects: Women costume designersCostume--History--20th centuryWomen motion picture producers and directorsMotion pictures--Setting and sceneryMotion pictures--Art direction

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Chapter 11. “In a Man’s World”: Women Industrial Designers
Ella Howard and Eric Setliff
Description: Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
WOMEN ARE MENTIONED ONLY INFREQUENTLY in histories of twentieth-century industrial design...
Author
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
PublisherBard Graduate Center
PublisherYale University Press
Copyright© 2000 The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture
Subjects: Industrial design--United StatesWomen designersFurniture designModernism (Art)--United StatesAutomobiles--Design and construction

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Chapter 12. Women Furniture Makers: From Decorative Designers to Studio Makers
Edward S. Cooke Jr.
Description: Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
WHILE A NUMBER OF DIFFERENT TYPES OF CREATIVE PRODUCTION are closely associated with women or considered women’s domain...
Author
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
PublisherBard Graduate Center
PublisherYale University Press
Copyright© 2000 The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture
Subjects: Women designersFurniture--United States--History--20th centuryFurniture designArts and crafts movement--United StatesCabinetmakers

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Chapter 13. “Woman’s Place. . .”?: Women Interior Designers
Pat Kirkham and Penny Sparke and Judith B. Gura
Description: Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
DURING THE TWENTIETH CENTURY a large number of women worked professionally as interior designers...
Author
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
PublisherBard Graduate Center
PublisherYale University Press
Copyright© 2000 The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture
Subjects: Women architectsWomen interior decoratorsInterior decoration--United States--History--20th centuryWomen professional employeesInterior decoration firms

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Chapter 14. Women Landscape Designers
Leslie Rose Close
Description: Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
AT THE THRESHOLD of the twentieth century, overdrawn gender roles cast American middle- and upper-class women as providers of beauty and creators of a morally uplifting home...
Author
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
PublisherBard Graduate Center
PublisherYale University Press
Copyright© 2000 The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture
Subjects: Women landscape architectsLandscape architecture--United StatesCambridge SchoolSculpture gardensLandscape architectural firms

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Chapter 15. “Quietly Fine” / Quietly Subversive: Women Ceramic Designers
Cheryl Buckley
Description: Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
IN FEBRUARY 1900 the Crockery and Glass Journal reported on a meeting of the United States Potters’ Association at which its president claimed...
Author
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
PublisherBard Graduate Center
PublisherYale University Press
Copyright© 2000 The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture
Subjects: Women pottersArt pottery, AmericanArts and crafts movement--United StatesModernism (Art)--United StatesFeminism in art

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Chapter 16. Colophon: Women Graphic Designers
Ellen Lupton
Description: Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
GRAPHIC DESIGN IS THE ART OF COMBINING WORDS AND IMAGES for public dissemination...
Author
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
PublisherBard Graduate Center
PublisherYale University Press
Copyright© 2000 The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture
Subjects: Women designersGraphic design (Typography)Arts and crafts movement--United StatesPostmodernism--United StatesDigital media

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Checklist of the Exhibition
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
Description: Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
~The objects in the exhibition are listed below in chronological order. Life dates, where known, are included for designers. In the dimensions, height precedes width precedes depth, and abbreviations are sometimes used: L. (length), Diam. (diameter), and so on. For costume, only the overall length of the garment is given. Most film costume and production...
Author
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
PublisherBard Graduate Center
PublisherYale University Press
Copyright© 2000 The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture

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Contributors
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
Description: Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Contributors
Author
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
PublisherBard Graduate Center
PublisherYale University Press
Copyright© 2000 The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture
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Bibliography
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
Description: Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Bibliography
Author
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
PublisherBard Graduate Center
PublisherYale University Press
Copyright© 2000 The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture
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Free
Index
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
Description: Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Index
Author
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
PublisherBard Graduate Center
PublisherYale University Press
Copyright© 2000 The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture
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Photographic credits
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
Description: Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
~Unless noted below, photographs are credited to the collectors, designers, museums, and other organizations listed in the captions and the Context Line, or to the photographic services of the Bard Graduate Center. Individual photographers, where known, are acknowledged below. Every effort has been made to contact copyright holders. Any errors or omissions...
Author
Pat Kirkham (Editor)
PublisherBard Graduate Center
PublisherYale University Press
Copyright© 2000 The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture
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Women Designers in the USA, 1900–2000: Diversity and Difference
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